Ulleri

In the heart of the Annapurna Conservation Area, Ulleri (also spelled Ulleri or Ulle) is one of the most memorable villages on the classic Annapurna Base Camp trekking route. At approximately 2,050 metres above sea level, this traditional Magar settlement marks the dramatic transition from the warm, subtropical Modi Khola valley to the cooler. These rhododendron-forested mid-hills lead to the famous Poon Hill sunrise viewpoint and beyond.

For thousands of trekkers every year, Ulleri is synonymous with one thing: the seemingly endless stone staircase that rises more than 3,000 steps from the small settlement of Tikhedhunga below. Those steps have earned Ulleri a reputation as the “great leg-burner” of the Annapurna circuit, yet the reward — sweeping views of Annapurna South (7,219 m) and Hiunchuli (6,441 m), colourful Magar hospitality, and the satisfaction of having conquered one of the toughest days on the short Poon Hill trek — is more than worth the effort.

Geography & Location

Ulleri sits on a broad, south-facing hillside above the deep gorge of the Bhurungdi Khola, a tributary of the Modi Khola. The village is built in classic mid-hill Nepali style: clusters of slate-roofed stone houses surrounded by neatly terraced fields of rice, millet, maize, and potatoes.

To the south, the land drops steeply toward the warm valleys around Birethanti and Nayapul; to the north, the horizon is dominated by the massive white wall of Annapurna South and the shark-fin profile of Hiunchuli. On crystal-clear mornings and evenings, Machapuchare (Fishtail, 6,993 m) also appears dramatically to the east.

Because Ulleri lies at the ecological transition zone between the lowland and the high mountain environments, visitors experience a wonderful mix of landscapes: subtropical vegetation and banana plants give way to oak and rhododendron forests as you climb higher. The village itself is surrounded by patches of forest that burst into brilliant red and pink during the rhododendron flowering season in March–April.

Quick Info Table

How to Reach Ulleri?

The vast majority of trekkers reach Ulleri as part of the Ghorepani–Poon Hill route, which usually starts from Nayapul (a 1.5–2-hour drive from Pokhara).

Standard route (most common):

• Day 1: Pokhara → Nayapul (by taxi/jeep) → Birethanti → Hille/Tikhedhunga (easy walk along the Modi Khola)

• Day 2: Tikhedhunga → Ulleri → Banthanti → Ghorepani

The famous staircase begins just after crossing the suspension bridge at Tikhedhunga. From the river at ~1,540 m, the trail climbs relentlessly for about 2–3 hours (depending on pace) on broad stone steps laid centuries ago by local villagers.

The vertical gain is roughly 800 metres in less than 2 horizontal kilometres — one of the steepest sustained ascents on any major Nepali trekking route. Most people take between 1.5 and 3 hours to complete the climb, stopping frequently to catch their breath and take photos.

Trekking Significance

Ulleri plays several important roles on the Ghorepani–Poon Hill and broader Annapurna Circuit routes:

• Physical & Mental Test:
  The staircase is often the first serious challenge for trekkers who may have flown in from sea level only days earlier. Conquering it provides an immediate sense of achievement and confidence for the rest of the journey.
  
  

• Acclimatisation Stop:
  Sleeping at 2,050 m after starting the day at ~1,000 m in Pokhara helps the body begin adjusting to altitude before reaching Ghorepani (2,874 m) and Poon Hill (3,210 m).
  
  

• Cultural Immersion Point:
  Unlike the more tourist-oriented Ghorepani, Ulleri retains a genuinely lived-in feel. Trekkers get a genuine introduction to Magar hospitality and rural mountain life.
  
  

• Strategic Overnight Halt:
  Most standard 4–5 day Poon Hill itineraries include a night in Ulleri (or nearby Banthanti) to break the long climb from the roadhead.

 Best Time to Visit Ulleri

• Spring (March–May) – The absolute peak season. Rhododendrons paint the forests crimson, temperatures are pleasant (10–20 °C during the day), and mountain views are generally clear, especially in the mornings.
• Autumn (September–November) – The most popular trekking season overall. Skies are reliably clear after the monsoon, visibility is excellent, and temperatures are comfortable (5–18 °C). October and early November are the busiest months.
• Winter (December–February) – Cold at night (can drop below freezing), but days are sunny, and the trails are quiet. Snow is possible above Ghorepani, but Ulleri itself rarely gets heavy snowfall.
• Monsoon (June–August) – Heavy rain makes the stone steps extremely slippery and dangerous. Leeches are abundant in the lower sections, and views are usually obscured by cloud. Only experienced trekkers visit during this time.

Accommodation & Facilities

Ulleri has 15–20 teahouses and small lodges ranging from very basic to reasonably comfortable. Most offer:

• Twin or dormitory rooms with shared bathrooms

• Simple Nepali and Western meals (dal bhat, momos, fried rice, pasta, etc.)

• Hot showers (usually bucket or gas-heated, for a fee)

• Limited electricity (solar or micro-hydro; charging costs extra)

• Basic Wi-Fi in some lodges (slow and expensive)

• Small shops selling snacks, water, toiletries, and trekking gear

Facilities are deliberately simple — this is still a farming village, not a resort town.

 Safety & Travel Tips

1. The Staircase – Start early (7–8 am) to avoid the midday heat. Trekking poles are highly recommended to save your knees on the descent if you return the same way.
   
   

2. Hydration & Snacks – There are a few small teashops along the stairs, but carry at least 1–2 litres of water and energy bars.
   
   

3. Pace Yourself – Go slowly. It’s not a race. Locals carrying 30–50 kg loads will pass you effortlessly — don’t try to keep up!
   
   

4. Acclimatisation – Even though Ulleri is only 2,050 m, the rapid gain from Pokhara/Nayapul in one or two days can cause mild headaches. Drink plenty of water and consider garlic soup (a local remedy).
   
   

5. Cash – No ATMs beyond Birethanti. Bring enough Nepali rupees.
   
   

6. Footwear – Good ankle support is essential for the uneven stone steps.

 Interesting Facts About Ulleri

• The stone staircase was constructed and is still maintained entirely by the villagers themselves.
  
  

• Ulleri is one of the largest Magar villages in the Annapurna region and has produced many Gurkha soldiers over the generations.
  
  

• On a clear day in spring, the view of Annapurna South from Ulleri is considered by many photographers to be one of the most perfect mountain compositions in Nepal.
  
  

• In 2015, after the earthquake, the community rebuilt many damaged houses and the staircase sections using traditional methods in record time, demonstrating remarkable resilience.

Conclusion

Ulleri is far more than just a collection of teahouses and a brutal staircase. It is a living Magar village where centuries-old traditions continue amid some of the most dramatic mountain scenery on earth. For trekkers, reaching the top of those 3,000+ steps feels like crossing a threshold — from the warm lowlands into the true Himalayan world.

The aching legs, the ringing of mule bells on the stone path, the smell of woodsmoke and momos cooking in teahouse kitchens, and finally that first breathtaking glimpse of Annapurna South towering above the village — these are the moments that make Ulleri unforgettable.