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Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing via Amphu Laptsa Pass - 25 Days

Destination Nepal
Activity Peak Climbing In Nepal
Duration 25 Days
Region Everest Region
TRIP CODE dwt002
GRADE Very Strenuous

About the Trip

An exciting mountaineering expedition to the summit of Mera Peak (6,476m) and Island Peak (6,189m), two of the most popular trekking peaks in Nepal, for breathtaking panoramic views of five of top ten world’s highest 8,000m mountains on earth; Everest, Lhotse, Kanchanjunga, Makalu and Cho-Oyu, through the crossing of the high spectacular and challenging Amphu Laptsa Pass in the Himalayas- an ultimate diverse climbing adventures leading to a true mountaineering experience.

Highlights

  • Climb Mera & Island Peak with proper acclimatization and contingency days
  • Stunning views from the summits of two of Nepal’s classic “trekking” peaks
  • Cross Amphu Laptsa Pass
  • High and wild trekking in the remote Hingku valley
  • Trekking through the Everest region to Namche Bazaar
  • Sherpa Culture
  • Explore the sights of vibrant Kathmandu during the full day sightseeing around the world heritage sites of Pahupatinath (a major Hind shrine) and the giant Buddhist stupa at Boudhanath and monkey temple of Swyambhunath.
  • Learn to use technical climbing gear
  • Follow magnificent glaciers
  • Experience Nepal’s spectacular wilderness

Overview

Feel unparallel thrill of camping in the icy wilderness experience to explore untamed beauty of Island Peak (6,189m) and scale the height of Mera Peak (6,476m), two of the highly sought peaks in Nepal Himalaya after summits, through the remote Hinku valley linking with a crossing of the spectacular and technical Amphu Laptsa Pass (5,780m).  This combined introductory expedition offers an opportunity to lead certainly to a true mountaineering experience.

Mera Peak 6,476m, to the south of Everest and into the heavily wooded Hinku valley, is the highest permitted trekking peak of Nepal. Island Peak in the heart of the Khumbu region is the part of the south ridge of Lhotse Sher encircled by truly exceptional view of semicircle Nuptse Sher in the north, Cho Polo and Makalu in the east. To the south are Baruntse, Amphu and Ama Dablam. Mera Peak is less technical peak in spite of involving in crossing very high, difficult passes and tough summit than Island Peak. Furthermore, the route to the summit of Island Peak is relatively steeper than Mera.

Mera Peak offers one of the most spectacular panoramic view of five 8,000m mountains; Chamlang, Kanchanjunga, Makalu and Baruntse in the east and the peaks of Cho-Oyu, Ama Dablam and Kangtega to the west. Everest can be viewed to the north over the massive unclimbed south face of Lhotse and the Nuptse ridge.

The exhilarating mountain flight lands at Lukla. To reach Mera Peak, initial days of journey follow off the beaten trail of Hinku valley leaving busy route to Everest. Our Sherpa climbing guide conducts training on various climbing techniques and skills before setting to rising higher peaks for successfully scaling on top summit of peaks. Rest day in high altitude, having spent several nights above 5,000m ensure extremely well acclimatized before ascending to the Mera la, High Camp for the final ascent to the summit. Island Peak’s summit seems to view almost at the same level from the crossing of the most technical glaciated Amphu Laptsa Pass in the highest part of the Khumbu region of Everest. An ascent of Island Peak involves a comfortable scramble, an intriguing rock ridge and then onto a wonderful glacier with the gorgeous and breathtaking landscapes of surrounding peaks Nuptse, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam and Baruntse. After the climb, we will descend back following the heartland of Sherpa. The route back to Lukla to complete the trip is shorter from here.

This expedition is designed for those who would like to climb a challenging Mera Peak, ascend the more technical Island Peak with proper acclimatization and arrangement of contingency days to maximize the chance of comfortably reaching on the summits. This trip is perfect for everyone with little or no previous experience of using an ice axe and crampons however requires an excellent level of physical fitness.

Photos & Videos

Day to Day Itinerary

day 1
Arrival to Kathmandu (Tribhuvan International A irport – TIA) (1 , 350 m/4 , 450 ft)

You are heartily welcome to the Himalayan kingdom of Nepal. Flight to Nepal always makes feel unique like doing adventurous journey while panoramic views of snow-capped mountains beneath your plane. After clearing of immigration and customs formalities, you will see Discovery World Trekking representative member displaying your name on the company signboard at exit airport terminals of the Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA) at Kathmandu. Then you will be welcomed, greeted, and escorted to the hotel in a private transpiration in the middle of Thamel, which is a perfectly delightful place in the heart of the city. Thamel is a fascinating area of good restaurants and shops. After checking in at hotel, later in the evening, there will be meeting and trip briefing orientation program. Then, you are free to settle in and explore your vibrant surroundings. Our friendly staffs are on hand to provide any advice or assistance.

day 2
Full Day Tour, Kathmandu Valley Sightseeing

Today, after breakfast, our program is to visit the full day Kathmandu valley sightseeing to the most significance culturally, religious historic places around world heritage sites. The tour guide assists us explore the sacred Hindu Temple of Pashupatinath - biggest Hindu temples of Lord Shiva in the world, the famous “Monkey Temple” Swyambhunath-an ancient religious complex atop a hill in the Kathmandu valley and Buddhist shrine Buddhanath-an ancient largest Buddhist Stupa in the world that dominates the skyline. After completion of the tour, there will be trekking briefing orientation, guide introduction and final check of climbing equipment for trek to ensure well prepared for the exciting journey ahead.

day 3
Flight to Lukla (2850 m/9,350 ft)-30 Minutes, trek to Chutang (3020m) – 3 hrs

We reach Kathmandu domestic terminal of Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA) for an early morning flight to the dramatic mountain tiny airstrip at Lukla-the gateway to one of the great spectacular flights above natural scenery and white Nepali Himalayas. This is one of the most beautiful air routes in the world, culminating in a landing on a hillside surrounded by high mountains. Just 40 minutes flight takes us to land at Lula, which is the start of our trek to Mera. Upon arrival here, our rest of the crews for Mera peak will be waiting to meet us and begin our trailhead heading eastwards the higher above the spectacular Dudh Khosi, leaving for the busy trail to Everest Base Camp. The Trek follows through hamlets and wood yards until we reach a thick forest of Silver fir, birch pastures and rhododendron and pine forests. There are many small streams with numerous places en route, the whole of this area referred to as Chutanga which is a summer pasture. We spend the reminder of the day resting, acclimatizing and exploring the nearby villages.

  • Overnight in Lodge.
  • Included meals ( Breakfast + Lunch + Dinner )
day 4
Chutang to Chhatrwabuk/Thuli Kharka via Zatrwa La (4,620m) - 6 to 7 hrs

Trekking today is a steep climb to cross the Kalo Himal Ridge in the Nau Lekh range, from here we enter into the Hinku valley, leaving the Khumbu valley and there is a feeling of untouched remoteness. A steep uphill trial marked by some ancient collection of Buddhist chortens. We continue traversing to reach Zatrwa La pass (4610m) welcomed by traditional Buddhist style with prayer flags. After celebrating our first pass, in a clear day, it looks very impressive the views across the Dudh Kosi towards Karyolung and the Lumding Himal. Moreover, we get our first glimpse of the scenery across the rolling foothills of the Hinku river Valley. From here less than an hour, we reach Thuli Karkha where we spent the well-deserved night’s rest.

  • Overnight in Lodge.
  • Included meals ( Breakfast + Lunch + Dinner )
day 5
Chhatrwabuk to Kothe (4182m) – 4 to 5 hrs

Another spectacular day awaits to get admired beautiful hills dotted with rhododendrons-Nepali national flower. The trek is relatively short and downhill. The trail traverses ridges above the Hinku Valley, enjoying grand views of the South Face of Mera Peak. A pleasant walk leads through the beautiful forests of Himalayan pine and rhododendron, bamboo along a ridge to the Hinku River all the way up to Kothe.

  • Overnight at Lodge
  • Included meals ( Breakfast + Lunch + Dinner )
day 6
Kothe to Thangnak (4356m) - 5 hrs

Today we realize entering into the high mountains of the Himalaya when we continue walking along the Ridge of Hinku, the first time seeing and enjoying River stream view on the destination surrounded by towering view of Mera Peak and other mountains. There are superb views of Kyashar (6,769m) and Kusum Karguru (6,367m). The walk is a steady and gradual climb up the valley, for the first section we walk near the river on a rocky trail. Then later on climb up to grassy yak pastures (kharka) above river level. We pass through the Gondishung, it is worth visiting an ancient monastery and a summer herder’s settlement on the west bank of the Hinku Drangka. We trek for some time to reach Thagnang, which is a summer grazing area with some primitive lodges and little shops.

  • Overnight at Lodge.
  • Included meals ( Breakfast + Lunch + Dinner )
day 7
Thangnak to Khare (5045m) - 4 to 5 hrs

Leaving for Khare, our hike heads eastwards and walk up slowly in destination acclimatizing and enjoying the surrounding scenery. Two and a half hour climb through the adventurous lateral moraine of Dig Glacier to walk on the large pasture of Dig Khraka, the dramatic views of the surrounding peaks continue to open up. The hike, then leads to a steep climb through moraines to the snout of the Hinku Nup and Shar Glaciers. We cross the stream and follow the trail across the boulder-strewn hillside for just over an hour. The steep climb brings us to Khare that provides an excellent view of Mera Peak.

  • Overnight in Lodge
  • Included meals ( Breakfast + Lunch + Dinner )
day 8
Acclimatization and Preparation day in Khare(5045m)

Before progressing further, today we have a rest day for acclimatization, exploration and practice of essential ice-climbing course under the guidance of our experienced climbing guide. After breakfast, we head up to the start of the Mera Glacier by climbing a steep ridge that we will later follow to the Mera La pass. Here we will take the opportunity to practice skills needed for glacial travel and organize a session on the glacier. First, we instruct techniques on how to use crampons, rope and ice axe etc. Thereafter, we shall provide training on peak climbing techniques and the proper ways of using climbing gears such as the ice axe, climbing boots and crampons, harness, ascender, etc. The training will also include how to use the ropes to go up and down. This helps us prepare for the summit of Mera. Although it is not mandatory to have prior training/skills for this trek to Mera Peak Base Camp, we strongly believe that some training experience will boost your confidence and your climbing skills to increase the chances of scaling the summit as well as to fully enjoy the experience. Later in the day, we return to Khare for over night’s sleep.

  • Overnight at Lodge.
  • Included meals ( Breakfast + Lunch + Dinner )
day 9
Khare to Mera La (5415m) to Base Camp (5350m) - 4 hrs

Today will be an exciting day as if it is the first day of mountaineering where three hours over a boulder-strewn path up to the glacier, leading up to Mera La. After reaching the snout of the glacier where we gear up fully putting on crampons, harness, mountaineering boots and walking with ice axes. Our freshly learned crampon and ice axe techniques will come in useful while climbing into the glacier. This exposed pass serves as a camp before climbing up to Mera’s high camp the next day. The views from the pass and first experience of mountaineering are spectacular. We first climb up to the Mera La (5,410m) and back up the ridge and then onto the back of the Mera base camp to settle in for a good night’s sleep.

  • Overnight at Tented camp.
  • Included meals ( Breakfast + Lunch + Dinner )
day 10
Base Camp to High Camp (5800m) - 4 hrs

Today, we head to high camp from base camp; the steep rocky trial leads to the high camp at altitude of 5,800 meters through Mera la pass. It provides an excellent launch pad for the final climb to the summit. Having gained the Mera La, the route turns left (south) and follows easy angled snow slopes. After a short distance an area of crevasses is come in. Under normal conditions, these can be walked around very easily, although looking into their deep, dark depths is always impressive. The crevasses soon give way to slightly steeper but open snow slopes that lead without difficulty to the high camp. Upon arrival at the High Camp, we are rewarded by an excellent panoramic views of Everest, Makalu and the Nuptse, Lhotse wall directly ahead. The setting sun casts an unbelievably magic light on these awesome mountains. We can also see the most of the route to the summit. We get an early night in to prepare for tomorrow’s summit bid.

  • Overnight at Tented camp.
  • Included meals ( Breakfast + Lunch + Dinner )
day 11
Mera High Camp to Summit and back to Khare(5045m)- 9 to10 hrs

We wake up early with hot cups of tea and start heading out into the cold on our way to the summit of Mera Peak. The going is relatively straight forward as we make our way up the Mera glacier and set a slow, steady pace. The route is still non-technical as we climb slowly but surely higher into the ever-thinning air. From the high camp to the summit bid will be made early in the morning, and take around 4 to 6 hours to get to the summit. The first rays of the sun hit the big peaks in an amazing red glow. At the foot of the final steep summit cone, we may attach to a fixed rope depending on conditions. The summit is only a few meters away. Shortly ahead is that moment we have all been working so hard to achieve: the summit itself. The slope steepens for a section behind the ridge and the summit comes back into view. The 360 panorama is perhaps one of the most impressive as well as incredible views of Baruntse (7129m), Haling (7319m) and NauLekh (6360m) with Makalu (8481m) looming behind. We are far enough back so that the smaller peaks do not obscure the views, but at the same time are deep in the heart of this fantastic mountainous vista. We spend some time taking it all in before we finally descend back down to Khare for our overnight at lodge which is about 2 hour descent. This is a very long but satisfying day.

  • Overnight at Tent.
  • Included meals ( Breakfast + Lunch + Dinner )
day 12
Reserve Day

We have allocated an extra day as a spare day or contingency day, set aside in case of problems with the weather or acclimatization. This extra day definitely gives some flexibility and use for a second summit attempt. This is also a buffer day in case of any other delays experienced along the way such as Lukla flight. If everything has gone smoothly and you succeed to climb on the summit day, this day is used to covering for the next day trek. If this day is not to utilize, as a contingency day, then it will use as a free day in Kathmandu.

  • Overnight camping.
  • Included meals ( Breakfast + Lunch + Dinner )
day 13
Kongma Dingma to Seto Pokhara via Honku Valley (5035m) - 5 to 6 hrs

After a successful expedition to Mera peak, we walk today through the remote valley of the upper yak pastures of this. Throughout the route, we will enjoy panoramic views of the Himalayan valley. It is almost a shock to realize that the two majestic mountains we are heading straight towards being none other than Everest and Lhotse.

  • Overnight in camp at Seto Pokhari.
  • Included meals ( Breakfast + Lunch + Dinner )
day 14
Seto Pokhari to Amphu Lapcha Base Camp through south (5650m) - 5 to 6 hrs

Trek through the remote parts of high altitude Himalayas to reach Amphu Lapcha base camp. This route is off the beaten trail, rarely we meet some other trekkers even in high touristic season. We steeply ascend just beyond White Lake, the first of a series of lakes that occupy the upper Honku Basin. Experience the wilderness of the Honku Valley. On the right is Chamlang (7321m) with hanging glaciers on its South-West and North-West faces, the Honku Valley is true mountain wilderness.

  • Overnight in Amphu Lapcha Base Camp.
  • Included meals: (B, L, D).
day 15
Amphu Lapcha Base Camp (South) to Amphu Lapcha Base Camp (North) [5300m) - 6 to7 hrs

We start our climb an early in the morning from the South base of Amphu Lapcha to the north base camp of Amphu Lapcha through the steep sections of rock and ice to take the pass when the snow is stable, before the sunlight melts the snow. Climbing ropes are likely to use wherever it seems necessary. The last sections of the climb to Amphu Lapcha winds up through snow shovels. On the other side, a steep descent awaits to be endeavored on fixed lines leading down to the moraine.

  • Reaching at the Amphu Lapcha North Base Camp, we camp and spend the night there.
  • Included meals ( Breakfast + Lunch + Dinner )
day 16
Amphu Lapcha Base Camp to Chukung (4700m) – 5 to 6 hrs

Today’s walk is though downhill along the moraine that connects to Chukkung, the starting point for the Island Peak. The wilderness of the remote Hinku Valley now introduces us to the civilization of the Khumbu Region. The Imja Khola joins the Dudh Koshi river a little above the Pangboche Village. There is a famous monastery at Pangboche believed to have been the oldest in the Khumbu region. To reach Pangboche after a few long days of hard mountaineering and trekking is a delight. Spending night in the comfort of the lodges in this occupied village is a warm welcome which we feel, is well deserved.

  • Overnight at Lodge.
  • Included meals ( Breakfast + Lunch + Dinner )
day 17
Rest Day to Relax and Acclimatize at Chhukhung

Despite rest day for proper acclimatization, we utilize this day as opportunity for preparation for climb under the guidance of Sherpa climbing guide, training on peak climbing techniques and way of proper using climbing gears such as climbing boots and crampons, harness, way of climbing up and climbing down on ropes will be conducted. Climbing over Island Peak does not require mandatorily prior training experiences. Although without doubt, such training opportunities will boost up climber confidence, sharpen climbing skills and increase the chances of scaling the summit. The training might be significantly useful for those who are doing their first expeditions though.

  • Overnight at Lodge.
  • Included meals ( Breakfast + Lunch + Dinner )
day 18
Trek to Island Peak Base Camp (5,200 m / 17,050 ft)- 3 to 4 hrs

It will be another relatively easy day as we make our way from Chukung up an open valley with marvelous landscape and mountain viewpoints. We rise gradually to base camp along the glacial morain of ImjaTsho glacial lake. Overnight at Tented Camp.

  • Overnight at Lodge.
  • Included meals ( Breakfast + Lunch + Dinner )
day 19
Summit Island (6,183m) Peak and return to Chhukhung

Today we begin our climb with a predawn, lighting our way by headlamp up the rocky trail through rock gorge leading to glacier pass of the summit. Our guide will fix a rope up using crampons and ice axes whenever necessary into glacier of crevasses. We follow the guide's footsteps. The route is generally easy to follow and winds its way up snow gullies and rock bands before easing off to a small plateau, where we will be able to take a good rest and enjoy the first rays of dawn. We will enjoy a beautiful sunrise on the edge of the glacier. A short steep snow slope leads to cross an exciting ridge to the summit. It is unforgettable moment to be on the summit, we will have time for celebrating enjoyment of reaching successfully on the summit, observing the astounding panoramic views of mountains and snapping enough photos before descending back to Base Camp. We descend all the way to Chhukung for overnight stay.

  • This is a celebration time on the success of Island peak climb.
  • Included meals ( Breakfast + Lunch + Dinner )
day 20
Contingency Day

This contingency day has arranged alternatively on the itinerary in case of unable to summit the Island Peak in the previous day due to bad weather, difficulties in acclimatizing and some other reasons. If there is no hassle and obstacles on the trip, runs smoothly, the day will be reduced accordingly with the adjustments on the itinerary.

  • Included meals ( Breakfast + Lunch + Dinner )
day 21
Trek to Tengboche(3,855 m/12,850 feet) - 5 hrs

After a leisurely breakfast in Chukung, we will head down the valley through Dingboche and on to Tengboche. After yesterday’s strenuous effort, we take it relatively easy today. We will have one more night near the monastery with excellent views of AmaDablam and much more.

  • Overnight at Lodge.
  • Included meals ( Breakfast + Lunch + Dinner )
day 22
Trek to Namche Bazaar (3440 m/11,285 ft) - 6 hrs

From Tengboche, we make a return following our footsteps in back to Namche. First we drop down to cross the DudhKosiriver and then climb and contour to the town of Namche.

  • Overnight at Lodge.
  • Included meals ( Breakfast + Lunch + Dinner )
day 23
Trek to Lukla (2850 m/9,350 ft) – 6 to 7 hrs

This will be our last day on the trekking trails and it will be a long but rewarding day as we make a return down the DudhKosi valley. From this direction the views will be entirely different. Eventually, we reach the large town of Lukla with airport where tomorrow we will have a flight back to Kathmandu.

  • Overnight at Lodge.
  • Included meals ( Breakfast + Lunch + Dinner )
day 24
Fly back to Kathmandu

The flight to Kathmandu normally schedules for the morning if everything certainly goes according to schedule. The scenic morning flight back to Kathmandu gives us one last chance for close look the glimpse of the mighty snow capped Himalaya in the distance and say farewell to the mountains. Upon arrival in Kathmandu, your guide will transfer you to the hotel. You are free to spend the rest of the day at your leisure to relax, refresh, and perhaps take a trip to explore more of the city, before the group’s final evening celebrating huge achievement with a special dinner.

day 25
Final Departure to home country

We really hope that you have enjoyed the trekking holiday in Nepal’s majestic hills with us. You have nothing more to do, but ready and excited about going back home. Therefore, you can provide your free time for last minute shopping for souvenirs or gift to your family, friends or relatives for you until your departure flight, approximately 3 hours before your scheduled flight; our personal representative will accompany you by private vehicle to the international airport for your final departure home. You bid Kathmandu and Nepal farewell until next time visit. On the way back to home, you will memorize the unforgettable experience trips and set up plan to next adventure in the wonderful country of Nepal.

What is Included?

  • Airport and Hotel transfers in Kathmandu with Private Transportation.
  • Three night’s accommodation in selected hotel in Kathmandu with Breakfast.
  • Teahouse and tented accommodation during trekking and climbing.
  • Full day Kathmandu valley sightseeing tour including cost of Tour guide, private transportation and entrance fees to World Heritage Sites.
  • Domestic Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu flight and airport departure taxes.
  • Tea House/ Lodge accommodation including meals Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner during trek.
  • Government License holder Discovery World Trekking English Speaking, experienced and qualified climbing guide, trekking guide, cook, and porter to help trekkers luggage..
  • All necessary paper works; trekking permits and Mera Peak and Island Peak climbing permit.
  • Coverage of guides and porters meals, insurance, salary, lodging, transportation, flight and other necessary equipment.
  • Medical kit.
  • Arrangement of Sleeping bags and Down Jacket for the climbing.
  • Catering extra dietary requirements
  • All Government and Local Taxes.
  • Assistance in arranging rescue operation in case of complicated health condition (funded by travel insurance).
  • Discovery World Trekking’s appreciation of certificate after over the successfully trek.
  • Farewell dinner.

What is Excluded?

  • International Flight.
  • Excess baggage charges.
  • Lunch and Dinner in Kathmandu.
  • Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu due to early arrival, late departure, early return from trekking (because of any reason) prior to the plan scheduled itinerary.
  • Personal expense such as shopping, snacks, bar bills, bottle or boiled water, shower, Wi-Fi, laundry, telephone call, bettery re-charge fee extra porters etc..
  • Personal clothing and gear.
  • Altitude chamber (PAC) or oxygen
  • Personal climbing guide if requested
  • Personal climbing equipments
  • Travel insurance.
  • Tips for guide and porters.
  • Additional costs or delays caused by management out of control like landscape, bad weather condition, in case of itinerary modification with a view to safety concern, illness, change of government policy, political instability raises strike, moment etc.

FAQ’s

What is the best Season for trekking /climbing?

Spring (March to June) and Fall (September to November) are the best seasons to trek Everest Base Camp. Discovery World Trekking can make arrangements if you wish to avoid the crowds in these season, DWT can make it happen in any season you want with all the safeties and fun.

How long do I need to walk per day during my trek/climbing?

The hiking will be 5-7 hours a day depending upon the landscape and destination.

What if my flight to and from Lukla is cancelled or delayed?

The flights are usually regular between October and May. But due to high altitude, bad weather and unforeseen technical issues, you may experience a delay or cancellation of the flight. On the occurrence of such events, Discovery World Trekking charters a helicopter to make sure you are on the safe schedule either for trek or for your flight back home which would cost extra charge as an unexpected event. However, if the visibility is less than 1,500 meters, it is unable to operate helicopter facilities and Discovery World Trekking will reschedule the flight.

Is meal easily available on the trek/Clmbing?

The meal on this trek is very convenient but not as in cities. Along with Western meals, chapati, rice, local tsampa porridge, Tibetan bread, various soups like Sherpa stew steaks, Momo (dumplings), Tenduk, noodles and thukpa are amazing himalayan cuisines for the trekkers. Discovery World Trekking will arrange meal in special areas for its clients.

What types of liquid do I need to drink at high altitude?

Garlic soup is must while trekking. Discovery World Trekking recommend trekkers to drink green tea, lemon tea, hot lemon and ginger tea. However, it is better to avoid alcohol and alcoholic beverages, caffeinated items and hot-chocolates at high altitude.

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