Annapurna IV, the fourth-highest peak in the Annapurna range, was first climbed in 1955 by a German expedition. As a mountain with rugged terrain and awe-inspiring beauty, Annapurna IV attracts nature lovers, trekkers, adventurers, and mountaineers worldwide. In this article, we will take a fresh look into this mountain.

Geological and Geographical Overview

Annapurna IV has a geological and geographical profile that is captivating and challenging. With its steep ridges, icy glaciers, and rocky slopes, this formidable peak presents a daunting yet irresistible allure to those who seek adventure in the mountains. This mountain, a part of the Annapurna subrange in the Himalayas, lies in northern central Nepal. To the west of Annapurna IV lies the Annapurna II (7,937 meters), and to its east is the Annapurna III (7,555 meters).

Subrange                      Annapurna massiff
Parent Peak                  Annapurna II
Elevation                       7,525 m / 24,688 ft
Prominence                  255 m / 837 ft
Isolation                        3.81 km / 2.37 mi
Difficulty grading        TD+/4 
Location:                       Humde, Manang

Annapurna IV rises to an elevation of 7,525 meters (24,688 feet) above sea level, and from the peak, you can enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding valleys and peaks.

 

History of Annapurna IV Expedition

The history of Annapurna IV is steeped in the rich tapestry of Himalayan exploration. In 1950, the highest mountain in the Annapurna range, Annapurna I (8,091) was summited by a French expedition headed by Maurice Herzog, making Annapurna I the first eight-thousander ever summited. This success brought attention to the Annapurna region worldwide. 

In 1955, a German expedition led by Heinz Steinmetz submitted the Annapurna IV for the first time. Annapurna II was climbed five years later - in May 1960 by British, Indian, and Nepalese mountaineers, followed by Annapurna III, climbed by an Indian expedition in 1961.

Over the years, adventurers and climbers have been drawn to its lofty heights, seeking to conquer its formidable slopes and stand atop its summit. While not as well-known as its neighboring peaks, Annapurna IV has witnessed numerous expeditions and triumphs, each adding to its legacy as a symbol of perseverance and achievement in mountaineering.

Best Season for the Annapurna IV Expedition

The best seasons for trekking and climbing activities in Nepal are spring (March, April, May) and autumn (September, October, and November). Monsoon takes over in the summer (June, July, August), bringing in a lot of rain, making it difficult for climbing or trekking activities. The cloud also hinders the views. The winter sets in in December, and the cold hinders tourism activities, mainly in high-altitude areas, until February.

During spring and autumn, the weather is relatively stable, and the climbing conditions are favorable. In these months, you can expect clear skies, mild temperatures, and minimal precipitation, providing optimal conditions for tackling the challenges of Annapurna IV. 

 

Annapurna IV Climbing Route

The climbing route to Annapurna IV is both exhilarating and demanding, requiring climbers to navigate the steep ice and snow slopes, rocky terrain, and exposed ridges.

The ascent is typically approached from the north side of this mountain, with base camps established at strategic points along the route. Climbers must be prepared for technical challenges, high altitude, and variable weather conditions as they make their way toward the summit of Annapurna IV.

We recommend you acclimatize at least a day at Manang Village (3,519m) before heading to Annapurna IV Base Camp (4,800m). There are three more camps, set at strategic locations for climbers to reach the summit. If you plan to climb Annapurna IV during spring rather than in autumn, you should prepare to handle more snow. The Sherpas will be with you to fix a line to help your ascent.

 

Annapurna IV Permits and Visa

To reach the Annapurna region, you must reach Nepal. All foreigners, except Indians, require a visa to enter Nepal. Fortunately, citizens from most countries can receive an on-arrival visa at Tribhuvan International Airport in Nepal or immigration checkpoints along Nepal’s borders. 

To apply for a tourist visa, you will require a passport with at least six months of validity, a recent passport-size photo, and a visa fee. The visa fee depends on your length of stay. The current cost is USD 50 for 30 days. For more information, please visit https://www.immigration.gov.np. 

To enter the Annapurna region, you will require:

Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP): The Annapurna Conservation Area Permit is a must for all trekkers entering the Annapurna Conservation Area (ACA). The ACA is one of Nepal's largest conservation areas and contains diverse landscapes, including forests, rivers, and high-altitude ecosystems. 

The permit fees collected from trekkers contribute to conservation efforts and sustainable tourism development in the region. Trekkers can obtain the ACAP at the entrance checkpoints along the trekking routes or the offices of the Nepal Tourism Board in Kathmandu or Pokhara.

Trekkers' Information Management System (TIMS) Card: The TIMS card is another essential permit for trekking in the Annapurna region. It helps track trekkers and ensures their safety by providing valuable information to authorities in case of emergencies. Trekkers can obtain the TIMS card at the offices of the Nepal Tourism Board in Kathmandu or Pokhara or through authorized trekking agencies. 

In addition to these permits, you will also require a climbing permit to climb Annapurna IV. The climbing permit is substantial and depends on the season. You can consult https://nepalhimalpeakprofile.org/annapurna-iv.  

 

Conclusion

In conclusion, Annapurna IV stands as a beacon of adventure and exploration in the heart of the Himalayas. With its awe-inspiring beauty, challenging terrain, and rich history,  this alpine wonder inspires and captivates all who dare to venture into its midst. 

Whether you're an experienced mountaineer or an aspiring climber, Annapurna IV offers a journey of a lifetime filled with unforgettable moments and unparalleled experiences amidst the towering peaks of Nepal's majestic mountains.

It is not mandatory that you must climb Annapurna IV. Most of us will not. However, you can still enjoy the views of Annapurna and the surrounding landscapes. We invite you to the Annapurna Circuit Trek and Annapurna Base Camp Trek.